Here are our highlights from New York Fashion Week (hint: they’re all art-focused)
New York Fashion Week (NYFW) may have ended, but we’re still thinking about art: Tommy Hilfiger made his own Andy Warhol-like Factory, Ulla Johnson was inspired by the works of Louise Bourgeois and Lee Krasner, and Marni spotlighted an up-and-coming Italian artist in her NYFW debut under the Manhattan Bridge. Here are our highlights from the Spring/Summer 2023 shows.
After a three-year break, the American brand returns to NYFW with Tommy Factory, a “phygital” universe inspired by Andy Warhol‘s Factory, featuring a foil-covered catwalk and artist-inspired Mylar (IRL and AR) balloons”silver cloudsat Skyline Drive-In in Brooklyn. The show was streamed live on Roblox, featuring masculine, feminine and gender neutral styles created with British designer Richard Quinn and featuring a new preppy TH Monogram by illustrator Fergus Purcell, all available at real-time purchase. Warhol Favorites Bob Colacellothe old Interview magazine editor and actress-model Donna Jordan walked the real-world runway alongside Julia Fox, Lila Moss, Precious Lee and Hari Nef, while a metaverse show featured Superplastic Janky avatars , Guggimon and Dayzee. Naturally, there was NFT swag.
For her Spring-Summer 2023 collection, the New York designer turned to both nature and art, in particular to the fabric works of Louise Bourgeois and the abstract expressionist paintings of Lee Krasner. The result was a very colorful and textured presentation – think shibori silk twill separates as well as hand knit, floral crochet and appliqué knit dresses in shades of purple, pink, orange and cerulean. – amid sculptural installations featuring giant lichens and flowers in Bloom.
As harpist Mary Lattimore performed in the community garden at El Jardín del Paraíso, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta paid tribute to artist Matthew Underwood, a friend of Latta’s who died in 2019. Creative dialogue with; the printing on the textiles was like part of an experiment,” the creator told Vogue Runway. Underwood’s landscapes and still lifes adorned a range of colorful and metallic knit tops and dresses, appearing both figurative and abstract.
For its New York debut, not to mention its first-ever show outside of Milan, the Italian fashion house set up a cobblestone runway under the Manhattan Bridge. Creative director Francesco Risso was inspired by the young artist based in Milan and London Flaminia Veronese, whose whimsical watercolors and sculptural works translated into silk dresses, crop tops and cropped shorts in semi-sheer knits and jerseys, and oversized denim pants in color-saturated circular prints. Risso also played cello with the String Orchestra of Brooklyn, which performed an original composition by Dev Hynes to accompany the show (despite the subway trains overhead).
At the National Arts Club, artist-turned-designer Carly Mark has combined some seemingly disparate inspirations that speak (with a surreal sense of humor) to her life in New York: Stanley Kubrick’s Eyes wide closedthe city’s nightlife and the French artist Gustave DoreThe haunting illustrations of the 19th century for Dante Hell. The resulting mix included lamé gowns in a flame-like ombré, stretch lace and electric mesh lingerie, tropical wool suits, sequins and handbags with chocolate chip cookies in resin, bananas, telephones and demons.
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